Brook Road Oldest Highway Into Richmond

Romantic History of Old Turnpike Is Recalled

By Vera Palmer

With so many modern highways coming into Richmond from every direction, some inquisitive soul is likely to raise the question as to which is the oldest of these improved roads? Fortunately, the answer is easy. The Brook Road, extending from the southern end of what is now Brook Avenue, was the first "made" road entering this city.

Long before the advent of the gasoline age, it was a turnpike, always regarded as a very fine thing in horse-and-buggy days, in spite of the ever-present toll-gates. Prior to that, it was an ordinary country road, while at an even earlier date, there was just a Colonial trail where trucks and motor cars now pass daily by the hundreds and thousands. In comparatively recent years, the route has been changed slightly, but for no great distance.

There is scant information concerning the earliest years of the old road, but in 1813 it was elevated to the dignity of "turnpike." This meant that many trees on each side were sacrificed to widen it and a foundation was laid which would withstand the hardest winters and the heaviest of stage coaches. The highway kept to the right at Solomon's Store and ran out by Yellow Tavern and on through Hanover County and into Louisa. There is some doubt as to its Northern terminus. It was known as Brook Road only to Solomon's Store, after which it became the Telegraph Road.

Those members of the General Assembly whose homes were situated either on the highway or its tributaries, not only entered Richmond by the Brook Road, but many stopped on it during the sessions. Goddin's Tavern, near Bacon's Quarter Branch, was a famous and most excellent hostelry back in the early decades of the nineteenth century. It was owned and operated by Captain John Goddin, great-grandfather of those of the name who today are among our prominent citizens. Economy as well as discrimination attracted the lawmakers, for not only was the tariff lower than was the case with houses in the heart of the town, but there were comparatively few temptations to spend money in amusements. The story goes that one legislator patronized Captain Goddin's tavern for many consecutive sessions, and by his thrift and economy was able to save enough money on each occasion to buy a young Negro boy, whom the worthy solon took home behind him on horseback. This hostelry was used as a hospital during the War Between the States, and was known as the St. Francis de Sales.

Close to the hotel was Goddin's Springs, a fashionable resort in its day. Games of various kinds are said to have been played there, while refreshments, especially the liquid kind, were dispensed by small Negro boys, well trained in the fine art of waiting on "de quality." Whether or not ladies went there seems a bit uncertain.

Brook Road was ever a popular thoroughfare with farmers, who traversed it for many, many years in their covered carts and wagons, bound for the Richmond market. Tobacco and all kinds of food products comprised their loads, which were exchanged for groceries, clothing and implements. Often these farmers would bring to town freight far more animated than leaf tobacco and garden produce, for great flocks of turkeys were not unusual sights in the fall and early winter months.

Sometimes hundreds of birds would march sedately down the road, provided they were allowed to take their own time. If hurried, the flock would become disorganized and many young gobblers and hens then were lost in the woods. When night came, these kings and queens of the Thanksgiving feasts soared to the near-by trees, there to remain quietly until morning. The drovers had to possess their soul with patience until those royal fowl chose to awaken and descend to the path of man.

Usually, the turkeys were early to bed, but they had a way of forgetting the other admonition of the ancient adage. Often, the sun would be high before they came down to a leisurely breakfast, and were ready once more to take the road which led to market and to death. A number of these travelers may have been destined for the basket of no less a personage than Chief Justice John Marshall, who often did his own marketing. We are told that he was most appreciative of tender roast turkey.

Slaughter House Area Is Remembered

Until comparatively recent years, many of Richmond's foremost butchers lived on that part of Brook Road near Bacon's Quarter Branch. A feature of the locality was the slaughter house in the rear of each home, for dealers then bought their animals on the hoof and killed them on their premises. About 20 years ago, the city passed an ordinance requiring all butchering to be done at the abbatoir on Chamberlayne Parkway. To drive through the neighborhood where the slaughter houses abounded is declared to have been a trying ordeal, although the owners were quite immune to the odor. The wife of one of the residents said once that when she first went there as a bride, she was mortified to note that passersby invariably took out their handkerchiefs.

One of the most widely known residents of the Brook Road of an early day, whose place was toward the north end of what is now Brook Avenue, was Peter Hawkins of tooth-drawing fame. Peter was a tall, raw-boned, extremely black Negro, who rode a horse as raw-boned and ebony-hued as himself. His shingle boldly proclaimed him "Peter Hawkins, Toothdrawer," and his practice was among both races, for he was the only incisor, molar and bicuspid artist in town. He carried his entire equipment in his pocket, unwrapped, of course, but as it consisted of only three stout instruments, known as "pullikins," he was not overloaded.

This "dentist" was so dexterous and also so obliging that he was often stopped in the street by sufferers, whom he would relieve of their aching members without even dismounting. Whether or not the extracted tooth happened to be the right one made little difference. The famous Mordecai, picturesque local historian of his time, notes in his "Richmond in By-Gone Days" that Peter took out two teeth for him with one wrench of the instrument. That a perfectly sound "biter" was sacrificed made no impression on the operator.

When Sundays came around, Peter Hawkins became a great expounder of the Scriptures. Then he mounted the pulpit, instead of his bag of bones, which moved on four legs. All the darkies along Brook Road watched with awe as he drew the fangs of satan with his spiritual pullikins. Peter is said to have given to this more difficult task the same amount of energy he exercised in his week-day profession.

The famous tooth-drawer had a neighbor, a racial brother, who lived a short distance to the north of him, but also on Brook Road. He was as indefatigable as an architect and builder as Peter was in dentistry. His hovel was constructed by its occupant of bricks, mud and other waste building material. Square, plumb and level were unknown terms to this self-taught designer, whose lack of technical knowledge showed plainly in the construction of the walls. The house progressed as the industry of the owner waxed and waned. It was nothing unusual, so the story goes, for one part of the flimsy structure to fall, while another section was being built. In this way the owner, architect and tenant found incessant occupation for himself over more than a score of years, or, in fact, until his death.

Marker at Spot Where Stuart Fell

The really historic spot leading from the old Brook Road is, of course, Yellow Tavern, near which the glorious General Jeb Stuart was shot in his defense of Richmond during the War Between the States, only to die within the city a short time after. A monument marks the site, which is on the left-hand side of the road as one goes north. But few today see the marker, for the road was abandoned when the present highway to Ashland was constructed. There are those who would like to see the monument moved so that it might be seen, but the majority contend that it would then completely lose its meaning. Nobody seems to remember when there was a hostelry called Yellow Tavern, but all concede that there must have been at some time, hence the name.

St. John's Church might be standing now somewhere in the neighborhood of the present Emmanuel had Colonel William Byrd 2nd but given his concent.

All that section was his land, and he contended that there were too many roads through it already. He told the vestry, however, that he would gladly give two of the best lots not yet taken in the town proper, and also any pine timber on that side of Shockoe Creek. The Black Swan of Westover and the founder of Richmond stated, too, that it would be more practical to have the church where there were the greatest number of people. Williamson's Plantation, as that north section was called, was far, indeed, from the center of the town's life.

In 1890, the Brook Turnpike, as it was called at that time, was purchased by the late Major Lewis Ginter, who improved it considerably to Solomon's Store. Three toll gates were maintained, the first of which after leaving town is said to have been close to where the Ashland car line now crosses Brook Road. Beaux of the old days would drive their ladies over this "pike," rather than by way of Second Street Road, where there was only one toll. Not only did the extra costliness add a dash of style, but the road was much better and the scenery more inspiring.

Today the old thoroughfare is looked on as just one more highway. The romance, the beauty and the comparative quiet of the past have all been forgotten. But if actually there were "tongues in trees," what a story those ancient sentinels could tell.